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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.